*note still in beta homepage ICS for HTC Desire - Home Brambo123 Mirror System im currently using this as my daily rom gotta say ics is a huge improvment in terms of GUI and features
I have used an older version that rom on my Desire, i found it to be a bit too laggy for every day use. Could have improved by now though. I do agree though stock Android 4 is great, running that on my new Galaxy Nexus.